Le Grand Train

Looking for a zero waste night out? Look no further than Grand Train, the 170 year old abandoned La Chapelle train depot, where all glasses and bottles are consigned and you can eat vegan and gluten-free. It's the kind of place people 1000 years from now will examine like Mary Beard, invoking scenes of people waiting for the toilets in Stan Smiths and Ray-Bans. Housing preserved SNCF trains and exhibits from all over the country (you can even sit in a restored railway car), the space, formerly known as Ground Control, features a 2000m2 urban garden, chicken coop, children's playground, cinema, library, secondhand furniture shop, disco, etc. In the food hall, vegans can order bibimbap from Jules et Shim and gluten-free desserts, like hazelnut passion fruit tarts from Helmut Newcake. There's even an organic market and some organic food stands.


Friday I saw Sarah from Colette there, wearing her usual Prada dress with a denim jacket and sneakers, and I once spotted Andre Saraiva seated peacefully in a lawn chair, happy, drinking alone. Expect plenty of hipsters in acid wash mom jeans, but also families and businessmen, sitting together on train tracks, playing pétanque or sipping rosé amidst upcycled furniture and greenery. Take a workshop or class, then get your hair cut at the barber shop and some ink at the tattoo parlor. I love this place, but you need to go soon: Grand Train closes October 16, 2016. It's not expensive, either. My meal and cider were 11 euros and my husband ate Pleurotte's organic, local wrap and fries with delicious special sauce for 10 euro. He also had drinks at La Buvette, but I forget how much they were.

Paris to Go


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